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Crochet dragonfly granny square pattern for summer blankets

Free crochet dragonfly granny square pattern with a slim body, four appliqué wings and French knot eyes. Beginner-friendly 3-inch summer motif

View the pattern
Skill levelEasy
Time1-2 Hours
YarnDK
Hook3.00 mm
The story behind the stitches

About this pattern

This pattern turns a plain three-round solid granny square into a little summer meadow scene with a dragonfly resting right in the middle. The dragonfly is built from five separate appliqué pieces — one slim body with a rounded head, two right wings and two left wings — that get stitched onto the finished square. It is perfect for anyone who loves granny squares but wants something with more personality than stripes, and for crocheters who enjoy assembling small pieces into one satisfying whole

Everything here is built from chains worked back along themselves. You chain, turn, and slip stitch through the back loops to create the long tapered body, then rotate and work down the front loops of the wings with a gentle progression of slip stitches, single crochet and half double crochet that gives each wing its curved edge. The background is a straightforward three-round solid square. Nothing more advanced than a half double crochet appears anywhere, so a confident beginner can finish the whole thing in an evening

The finished square measures roughly 3.1 inches by 3.1 inches, small enough to multiply quickly into a blanket and large enough that the dragonfly reads clearly from across a room. The appliqué construction gives it real dimension — the wings sit slightly proud of the background, catching light and shadow as the fabric moves. Made in five colors it becomes a genuinely charming handmade gift, whether it goes into a summer throw, a tote bag panel, or a single framed square for a nursery wall

Make it your own

Variations

Idea 1

I have a soft spot for patterns that look far more complicated than they actually are, and this one is my favorite kind of trick. The whole dragonfly is just chains worked back on themselves — you chain eighteen, turn around, and slip stitch your way home through the back loops, and suddenly you are holding a slim little body. Then those two tiny arched shapes at the top form the head, and I genuinely grinned the first time one appeared under my hook. The wings are where it gets clever: working slip stitches into hdc along the front loops creates a natural curve, so the wings taper and lift without any shaping math. My favorite moment is assembly. You lay the body vertically down the center, arrange four wings near the head until the angles look right, then stitch one line straight across each wing — and that single line becomes the wing vein. Two French knots for eyes, and the thing comes alive. It is small, it is fast, and it makes people ask how on earth you did it

A little help along the way

Common mistakes

01 / Troubleshooting

Working into both loops instead of only

The back-loop-only return is what makes the body slim and gives it that raised ridge. If you catch both loops, the piece will be wider, flatter, and it will curl awkwardly. Tilt the chain toward you so the back loop sits clearly on top, and insert your hook under that single strand only. Slow down for the first three stitches until your eye learns the rhythm

02 / Troubleshooting

Making four identical wings instead of

The right and left wings are genuinely different — the right wing chains 10 and works 9 slip stitches on the back loops, while the left wing chains 11, skips 4, and works only 7 stitches with the shaping reversed. Make both right wings first, set them aside in a pair, then make both left wings. Lay them out mirrored before you sew anything down

03 / Troubleshooting

Forgetting to rotate the wing piece

After the first pass of slip stitches you must physically turn the piece around so you are working back along the opposite side of the same foundation chain, into the front loops. Skipping this rotation gives you a straight strip instead of a wing with a curved outer edge. Rotate the work like turning a page, keeping the same face toward you

04 / Troubleshooting

Stitching the dragonfly body on crooked or off-center

Place the body vertically with the head pointing to the top of the square and pin or hold it in position before making a single stitch. Check that the distance from the body to the left and right edges matches, and that the head sits well inside the top round rather than crowding the border. A single pin at the head and one at the tail keeps it honest while you sew

05 / Troubleshooting

Sewing the wings down only at the base

The assembly calls for a stitched line straight across the center of each wing. That line does double duty — it anchors the wing flat and creates the vein detail that makes it read as a dragonfly wing. Use a single strand of matching yarn and run a neat line from the inner edge to the outer tip of each wing

06 / Troubleshooting

Making the French knot eyes too large

The head is tiny, so two or three wraps around the needle is plenty. More than that and the knots dominate the whole face. Work them close together near the top of the head, pull the yarn through slowly while holding the wraps snug against the fabric, and secure the tail on the back before trimming

Gather your supplies

Materials & abbreviations

Materials

  • Yarn of your choice- 5 colors; the sample is made with DK Sports. The finished granny square is about 3.1 inches by 3.1 inches.
  • Crochet hook- we are using a 3.00mm hook
  • Darning Needle
  • Scissors

Abbreviations

ch
chain stitch
sc
single crochet
hdc
half double crochet
dc
double crochet
rep
repeat
st
stitch
sk
skip
slst / sl st
slip stitch for joining different rounds
yo
yarn over
FL
front loop
BL
back loop
Stitch by stitch

Main pattern

ROUND 1

Body — Round 1

Pattern

Knot on the hook, ch18. Return, sk1, BL of next 17 ch (from 17th to 1st): 17slst. Still work in the BL of 1st ch: [(ch2, return, sk1, BL of the 1st st: 1sc). slst. (ch2, return, sk1, BL of the 1st ch: 1sc). slst]. Fasten off.

Tip We begin by chaining and working back to create the slim dragonfly body. Then we stitch two small arched shapes at the top to form the head.

NOTE

Body — Additional guidance

Pattern

Make a knot on the hook and chain 18; return along the chain, skip 1, and work 17 slip stitches into the back loops of the next 17 chains (from the 17th back to the 1st). Then, still working into the back loop of that 1st chain, make the two little arched shapes for the head: chain 2, return, skip 1, work 1 single crochet into the back loop of the 1st stitch, slip stitch; then chain 2 again, return, skip 1, work 1 single crochet into the back loop of the 1st chain, slip stitch. Fasten off. The sample body is worked in bright orange.

ROUND 1

Right Wing — Round 1

Pattern

Knot on the hook, ch10. Return, sk1, BL of next 9 ch (from 9th to 1st): 9slst. Then rotate your piece to work on the opposite side of the foundation chain. FL of the 9 ch (from 1st to 9th): 2slst, 3sc, 2hdc, ch2, sk2. slst to the 10th ch (FL), fasten off.

Tip Just like real dragonflies, ours will have two pairs of wings. In this part, we'll create both the left and right wing appliqués.

NOTE

Right Wing — Additional guidance

Pattern

Follow the steps in the pattern and choose colors that match your dragonfly design. Remember to make two of each wing — two left wings and two right wings! The sample uses shades of light and dark blue for the wings.

NOTE

Right Wing — Additional guidance

Pattern

Make two right wings.

NOTE

Right Wing — Additional guidance

Pattern

Knot on the hook and chain 10; return, skip 1, and work 9 slip stitches into the back loops of the next 9 chains (from the 9th back to the 1st). Then rotate your piece to work on the opposite side of the foundation chain. Working into the front loops of the 9 chains (from the 1st to the 9th), work 2 slip stitches, 3 single crochet, 2 half double crochet, chain 2, skip 2, then slip stitch into the front loop of the 10th chain and fasten off.

ROUND 1

Left Wing — Round 1

Pattern

Knot on the hook, ch11. Return, sk4, BL of next 7ch (from 7th to 1st): 2hdc, 3sc, 2slst. Then rotate your piece to work on the opposite side of the foundation chain. FL of the 9ch (from 1st to 9th): 9slst. Fasten off.

Tip Make two left wings.

NOTE

Left Wing — Additional guidance

Pattern

Knot on the hook and chain 11; return, skip 4, and work back into the back loops of the next 7 chains (from the 7th to the 1st) as follows: 2 half double crochet, 3 single crochet, 2 slip stitches. Then rotate your piece to work on the opposite side of the foundation chain and work 9 slip stitches into the front loops of the 9 chains (from the 1st to the 9th). Fasten off. Note the shaping is the mirror image of the right wing.

ROUND 1

Background - Solid Granny Square — Round 1

Pattern

Start with a magic loop. ch3 as a standing st(count as 1dc). 3dc, ch3. *(4dc, ch3) * rep 3 times omitting final ch3, ch1, 1hdc connects back to your starting ch3.

Tip Let's crochet a solid granny square as the background for your dragonfly.

ROUND 2-3

Background - Solid Granny Square — Round 2-3

Pattern

ch3(counts as dc), 1dc in this corner. (2dc+ch3+2dc) in remaining corners. 1dc in remaining sts. 2dc in the start corner. ch1, 1hdc connect back to the first ch3.

ROUND 4

Background - Solid Granny Square — Round 4

Pattern

ch3 as a standing st(count as 1dc), 1dc in this corner sp. (2dc+ch3+2dc) in remaining corners. 1dc in remaining sts. 2dc in the starting corner, ch3, sl st to the true dc after first ch3, fasten off.

Before you finish

Important notes

  • The finished square measures approximately 3.1 inches by 3.1 inches when worked in DK sports weight yarn with a 3.00mm hook. If you are making a blanket, crochet one full square first and measure it before committing to a hook size — everything else in the project depends on that number staying consistent

  • Weave in the ends on the background square before you attach any appliqué pieces. Once the dragonfly is stitched down, the back of the square becomes crowded with sewing tails and it is much harder to bury a yarn end neatly without distorting the front

  • Leave a generous sewing tail — about eight to ten inches — when fastening off each appliqué piece. You will use that same tail to sew the piece onto the square, which means no extra joins and no extra ends to hide

  • Block the background square lightly before assembly. A flat, square background makes it far easier to judge the placement of the body and the four wings, and a squared-up edge is essential if you plan to join multiple squares later

  • Use a smooth yarn with good stitch definition for the wings. Fuzzy or heavily textured yarn hides the slip stitch to single crochet to half double crochet progression that creates the wing shape, and the vein line will disappear into the fluff

  • Keep your slip stitches loose. Slip stitch fabric tightens easily, and both the body and the wings are built almost entirely from them — a tight tension will make the pieces curl and shorten rather than lie flat against the square

  • The finished granny square is about 3.1 inches by 3.1 inches

  • You'll create the long body and four wings by working back along foundation chains, then sew them onto a solid square for a bold 3D effect

  • Try it in orange or red to capture that summer memory. These squares are perfect for blankets or summer bags

  • Sample colorway: the dragonfly features a bright orange body and delicate wings in shades of light and dark blue

Good to know

Frequently asked questions

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